MAINTAINING YOUR MATERIALS
STONE SURFACES
With all natural stone products, we recommend the use of a stone maintenance program using an impregnating sealer and neutral cleaner. Harsh chemicals, especially acidic or alkaline products can cause damage to polished stones. Care should be taken in the selection of sealers, as some sealers may enhance the color of the stone(We suggest not using a topcoat as it can give stone a waxy or artificial look.)
Dust mop interior floors. Like all high-gloss materials, stone installed as flooring should be kept free of dust, sand and tracked-in soil. This sediment can damage the polished finish of even the hardest stone. A good "first line of defense" is the strategic placement of walk-off mats at any outside entrances. If the floor is sediment-free, mopping and rinsing with clean, warm water will be sufficient to keep your floor looking beautiful.
Prevent soap scum build-up in showers and baths by using a squeegee.
GRANITE SURFACES
As one of the hardest of the natural stones, granite is especially appropriate for use as flooring or countertops. An igneous rock, granite is impervious to damage from household kitchen acids such as vinegar, citrus drinks and sodas. Granite also handles heat extremely well; taking a hot pan from the stove and placing it on a granite countertop is perfectly all right.
Do remember, however, that some granite can be stained by some liquids or darkened by oils if not properly sealed with a penetrating stone sealer. Once sealed, granite shouldn’t require any special care other than regular cleaning with warm, soapy water.
Granite Countertops
1. Step 1
Blot up spills immediately, before they penetrate the surface.
2. Step 2
Clean stone surfaces with a few drops of neutral cleaner, stone soap (available in hardware stores or from a stone dealer), or mild dishwashing liquid and warm water.
3. Step 3
Use a soft, clean cloth to clean the granite. Rinse after washing with the soap solution and dry with a soft, clean cloth.
4. Step 4
Remove a stain on granite, basing the method on the type of stain. Mix a cup of flour, 1-2 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid with water to make a thick paste. Put it on the stain, cover with plastic wrap, and let it sit overnight.
5. Step 5
Scrape away the mixture with a wooden utensil and rinse. If the stain is oil-based (e.g. grease, oil, milk), use hydrogen peroxide in the paste instead of dishwashing liquid - or try ammonia on it.
6. Step 6
Try a mixture of 12 percent hydrogen peroxide mixed with a couple drops of ammonia for an organic stain (e.g. coffee, tea, fruit).
7. Step 7
Use a lacquer thinner or acetone to remove ink or marker stains from darker stone. On light-colored granite, use hydrogen peroxide to these stains. This also works for wine stains.
8. Step 8
Mix molding plaster and pure bleach into a paste and spread over a wine, ink or other non-oil stain. Leave on for 30 minutes, then remove and rinse.
9. Step 9
Paste a mix of molding plaster and water over an oil-based or fat-based stain. Mold it into a bird's-nest shape and allow to stand for 3 hours. Remove and rinse.
10. Step 10
Reseal the countertop every year or two years. Check with the installer for recommendations. Use a non-toxic sealer on food preparation areas.
11. Step 11
Consider using a new disinfectant cleaner made specifically for granite.
12. Step 12
Call your professional stone supplier, installer, or restoration specialist for problems that appear too difficult to treat.
MARBLE, LIMESTONE, TRAVERTINE
Marble, limestone and travertine are calcareous (calcium-based) stones that are perfect for foyer and bathroom flooring, walls, bathroom counters and fireplaces. Because they are more porous stones, some care should be taken when used in the kitchen as flooring or countertops.
After installation, seal with a penetrating stone sealer. Sealing will minimize any absorption of liquids that might stain the material. Polished marble, limestone and travertine can still, however, be damaged by acidic substances (such as vinegar, citrus drinks, mustard and catsup). These acids can dull a polished surface or roughen a honed finish if not wiped up promptly.
If necessary, clean with a stone cleaner, neutral Ph cleaner or mild dishwashing liquid. Never use abrasive cleansers, "soft scrub" products or harsh or acidic chemicals on any stone as these can scratch or dull the polished finish. A good rule of thumb is never to use anything on your stone that you wouldn’t use on your hands.
There are excellent stone-specific cleaning products available, including pH-neutral cleaners that are specifically formulated to be gentle to stone surfaces. Avoid cleaning products not specifically designed for marble, limestone or travertine.
Sandstone tiles are excellent materials to use because of their natural beauty. They also help prevent accidents and injuries because of their porous surface. Sandstone has many advantages but it also has special needs that you need to take care of in order to maintain and keep your sandstone tiles clean and beautiful. Here are some ways to clean sandstone tiles.
1. If you have just installed your sandstone tiles, you will need to cover them immediately with a sealing chemical for protection. Without this chemical it will be very easy to destroy the stone tiles. The sealing chemical acts like a protective covering for sandstone tiles that will both protect them and make it easier to take care of
2. With the sealing chemical already on the tiles, it will simply be a matter of daily maintenance to keep them clean. Use a dry dust mop to remove dust and other particles on the tiles every day. Sandstone tiles are pretty much weak when they get wet since there is a chance that the tiles will absorb moist or wet substances. When this happens, it will be almost impossible to repair the affected tile.
3. If you find that there is a spill on your tiles, you should make it a habit to always clean it immediately. If the spill has already become part of the tile and it seems practically impossible to remove, use a sponge and a little bit of hot water to clean off the spillages.
QUARTZ
Quartz countertops are beautiful, highly-polished, durable, non-porous and stronger than granite. They are mold and mildew resistant as well as impervious to water and other liquids. It is more hygienic and food-safe due to its non-porous surface. This property also makes the stone highly polished without the need of a sealant.
Although almost maintenance-free, there are things that need to be considered and observed to keep a quartz countertop looking like new and in tip-top condition. Like all natural stones, quartz countertops still need to be cared for to keep its gloss, color and shine and be used longer. Here are some care tips.
1. Wipe the quartz countertop with a soft damp cloth or paper towel for routine cleaning. If there is some residue that needs more attention, use a mild cleanser that is chlorine-free and non-abrasive. Continued scrubbing with an abrasive material can eventually wear away and dull the surface of your quartz countertop.
2. Quartz countertop will resists moisture and permanent staining but it is a good habit and hygienic practice to wipe off spilled liquids and food immediately. Some highly-acidic fruit juices can discolor the stone
3. Scrub dried and stubborn spills with a nonabrasive cleaning pad and a bit of glass and surface cleanser or a mild dishwashing detergent.
4. Even if a quartz countertop is highly polished and do not require a sealant, avoid the use of bleach or cleaning agents containing bleach to preserve the color of the countertop.
5. Quartz countertop can tolerate moderate heat but continued exposure to high heat can damage its surface. Use trivets and hot pads underneath hot pots and pans to protect the beautiful surface of your quartz countertop.
6. Use a plastic putty knife to gently scrape dried up food particles, gum, nail polish, grease or paint that have stuck to the surface of your quartz countertop. A used credit card will also do the trick.
7. Use a degreasing product to loosen and remove grease build up on countertops. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using such products.
8. Avoid the use of and exposing the quartz countertop to harsh chemicals and solvents such as paint and nail polish removers, oven cleaners and furniture strippers that contain methylene chloride or trichlorethane. These chemicals can damage the surface of the countertop and discolor the stone.
9. Avoid using products that contain oils and powders that can leave a residue and mar the polish of your quartz countertop.
Take care of your quartz countertop. It will not only preserve the beauty of the countertop, it will also ensure that you will be able to use your quartz countertop for a very long time; perhaps it can even outlast your house
TERRAZZO
Terrazzo floors are not only beautiful, but also very durable. Terrazzo is made by embedding pieces of marble in concrete and then polishing the surface to be very smooth. As a result of terrazzo's smooth and high-shine finish, it can show stains and scratches very easily. Caring for your terrazzo tile floor properly will ensure it continues to look beautiful for many years to come
Entrance Mats
1. The worst enemy of any floor is dust and grit brought into the building on shoes from outside. These outside contaminates are abrasive and will dull and scratch the floor. In order to minimize the possible damage from outside dirt, all entrances should be supplied with absorbent mats. Entrance mats should be long enough, at least six feet, to collect dirt and debris from the shoes before people step off the mats onto the terrazzo. For wet or snowy weather, longer mats are needed in order to collect water and salt residue. The mats should be vacuumed daily and cleaned or replaced as needed.
Dust Mopping
2. Dust mopping is as important as entrance mats for daily terrazzo care. Dust mopping with a dust mop that has been treated with a water-based treatment should be done at least once a day. Never use oil-based dust mop treatment on terrazzo floors. If foot traffic is heavy, the floor should be dust mopped more often. In a school situation, the floors are often dust mopped during each period while classes are in session. Dust mops should be allowed to become quite soiled, as a well-used mop will do a better job of collecting dust and grit than a brand new clean mop.
Wet Mopping
1. Terrazzo floors should be wet mopped regularly to keep the surface clean and shiny. Most cleaners are alkaline, having a pH above the 8.0 range, and will leave a haze on the surface that is difficult to remove. Acid cleaners with a pH below 6.0 will permanently harm the floor by etching the surface. Any cleaner used on terrazzo should be pH neutral. Always follow the manufacturer's directions when diluting cleaning chemicals. Although neutral floor cleaners with a dilution ration of ½ or 1 ounce per gallon appear expensive, these are probably the best value for your cleaning dollar because of the amount of diluted product they will yield.
Buffing
2. When the floor is completely dry, buff it with a 175-rpm floor machine. High-speed machines do a fine job on resilient tile floors with floor finish on them, but will not do any better than a 175-rpm floor machine on terrazo. Make sure that the buffing pads are white polishing pads; any colored pad will be too abrasive for terrazzo.
Other Considerations
3. Never put a floor finish or sealer on terrazzo. Terrazzo needs to breathe and allow moisture to rise to the surface and evaporate. If the floor has a seal on it, the moisture will have nowhere to go, and the floor will eventually crack.
Clean spills as quickly as possible in order to prevent the spill from penetrating the surface and causing a stain.
Natural stone (slate, sandstone, flagstone)
METAL.
. Brass,Copper, Iron
Cleaning brass and copper can be some of the most challenging of household cleaning. I've included three options to clean your brass and copper naturally and frugally, using common household products.
RECIPE 1
Mix baking soda and white vinegar together to create a paste. Rub into copper or brass item with a soft cloth. Rinse and dry with a cloth.
RECIPE 2
For more stubborn stains, make a paste of white vinegar and salt. Rub on object with cloth. This is most abrasive and should be used with caution on fragile surfaces.
LIGHT FIXTURES
1 Remove the light bulb and lamp shade (if there is one) so that they are out of the way.
2 Wipe the copper light fixture with a soft cloth to remove any dust.
3 Mix equal parts flour, salt and vinegar until they form a paste-like consistency.
4 Apply the paste mix to the lamp. Rub it evenly over all the copper parts of the light fixture.
5 Set the copper light fixture with the paste on it aside for at least 15 minutes. The acid in the vinegar will set in and begin to dissolve the tarnish. For more severe tarnish, you may want to let the paste sit longer.
6 Rinse the paste off with a cloth soaked with warm water.
7 Wipe down again with a clean, dry cloth to finish shining the copper light fixture.
Lemon and Salt Cleaner 1 Clean the copper light fixture with a cloth to remove any materials on the surface.
2 Cut a lemon in half and sprinkle it with salt.
3 Rub the lemon halve over the light fixture, applying more salt as needed.
4 Take a soft cloth and wipe the light fixture dry
GLASS
. Frosted
Cleaning Frosted Glass Wipe the window with purified water using a squeegee until it is saturated. Frosted glass tends to have pits that attract the dirt. This sometimes makes it necessary to use an abrasive sponge to thoroughly clean it. However, it is very important to understand that frosted glass can be marked by metallic objects. If this happens, you may need to use a wet and dry emery paper to help smooth out any dings and streaks.
Dry the frosted glass window with a dry cloth in a circular motion until there are not any more streaks. It is that simple! A frosted glass window has some great benefits, along with the fact that it adds elegance and style to a home. Just remember the secret to cleaning frosted glass is simply using purified water
CARPENTRY
Veneer
1. Dampen a soft, non-abrasive, lint-free cloth with warm water. Do not soak your cloth, as you do not want to over saturate your wood. Allow just enough moisture to dampen your furniture, removing simple dust and dirt. Wipe the entire surface of your wood veneer, always moving in the direction of the wood grain.
2. Apply a dab of mild dishwashing detergent to your damp cloth to remove more stubborn spots such as finger prints and liquid stains. For especially stubborn stains, you can lightly spray the wood with a commercial glass cleaner without harming the finish or leaving any unwanted residues, according to Office Supply Services Inc.
3. Dry your wood veneer using a second non-abrasive cloth. Remember to wipe in the direction of the wood grain and continue until the wood dries completely, in order to avoid water spotting.
4. Polish your wood veneer by dabbing a liquid polish onto a soft cloth and wiping the surface of the veneer just as you would during a regular cleaning. You do not need to polish your veneer as part of your regular maintenance, but polishing can restore the wood's natural shine if it becomes to look dull.
. Engineered (flooring)
Engineered hardwood floors are made by layering fiberboard underneath a top layer of real wood. This design lets the boards in the flooring expand and contract with changing humidity levels, allowing engineered hardwoods to be used in areas that traditional hardwood flooring cannot be. Engineered hardwood floors are not difficult to care for and last for a long time when properly maintained.
Sweep the floors every 2 to 3 days. Fine dirt particles can scratch the floor so it is important to remove dust on a regular basis. Be sure the broom you are using has fine, soft bristles. A dry dust mop can also be used.
2.Vacuum the floor using a soft brush vacuum attachment about once a week. This will pick up any dust or fine dirt particles on the floor and pull dust up from between the boards.
3. Use a SLIGHTLY damp mop if the floor is heavily soiled and in need of some extra attention. Ring out the mop well, until it is almost dry. If you feel the need to use cleaning solution on the floor, use one approved by the floor manufacturer.
4. Place area rugs and carpet runners in high traffic areas to protect the floor. Clean underneath them often so that dirt does not filter through the rug and onto the floor. It is also wise to put a heavy mat just outside and inside the door to catch as much dirt as possible when you and your guests enter the house.
5. Clean up any liquid spills right away and be sure the floor is completely dry. Liquid is hardwood flooring's biggest enemy.
6.Take your shoes off upon entering your home and asks guests to do the same. High heels, heavy work boots and athletic cleats are especially likely to cause floor damage.
CARPET
. Wool
1.Vacuum your wool carpet regularly, at least once every week because dirt gets easily embedded into wool fibers. Use a vacuum that has a rotating brush on the highest floor setting so the brushes just barely touch the top of the wool carpet. Sprinkle carpet powder on the surface prior to vacuuming to help pull up dirt and hair from the fibers.
2.Spray spots in your wool carpet with a commercial stain remover and let the solution soak into the fibers. Cover the spot with a thick stack of paper towels or a clean, absorbent cloth and apply pressure to pull out the stain and the solution. You also can use a handheld deep-cleaning carpet cleaner or shampoo machine to spot clean.
3.Use an aerosol foam carpet spray on your wool carpet stain. Gently work it in with a cleaning brush; do not scrub or you will damage carpet fibers. Allow it to dry before vacuuming.
4.Purchase or rent a professional carpet shampooer to clean the entire carpet. Put a mild natural detergent in the solution with water. Shampoo your wool carpet at least once a month with this solution.
Tips & Warnings
5.Mix a small amount of mild natural detergent in spray bottle with water. Next time you notice a fresh stain on your wool carpet, you'll have something handy to spray it and soak up the liquid with a sponge or paper towel. For vomit or another solid spill on your wool carpet, scoop it up with a large spoon so you'll avoid smearing into the wool fibers. Be careful not to buy a vacuum cleaner with very stiff brushes as this tends to pull out the wool fiber and create a "fuzzed" look
Silk
Cleaning silk carpet is a risky and best suited for professionals, but at times you may have to clean the carpet yourself or a spill could occur that must be handled quickly. If your silk carpet has any kind of manufacturer's cleaning instructions, refer to these first. Be advised that even when following the manufacturer's instructions, you will need to test the least conspicuous area before cleaning your entire carpet. Taking preventative measure are necessary to reduce the cleaning needs, and will keep your silk carpet looking new for longer
Cleaning Solutions
1. Only use a mild detergent that will not damage the color or fibers of the silk. A solution of warm water and white vinegar is good to spray on any affected or dirty areas of a silk carpet that need to be cleaned. Be careful not to use any cleaning solutions excessively because it will make it harder to rinse these out and residues will most likely be left behind that will turn your silk carpet into more of a sponge for soil. Test a small, inconspicuous area with any cleaning detergent that you are going to use before applying it to any large area. If there are any negative results at all, do not use that cleaner.
Moisture
2. Never saturate your silk carpet with water. This will cause permanent damage to the carpet, its lining and your floors. Colors on a silk carpet will run and fade when wet, so be careful with any fluid and blot, don't rub, when absorbing liquid off of the carpet with a rag or sponge. Make sure that your carpet is dry within 12 hours after cleaning it. You can do this by making sure it does not get wet during cleaning. You can also turn on the heating in your house and make sure that a number of fans are blowing to speed the drying process. If your silk carpet is removable, hanging it to dry is not a good idea because the edges may brown from the hang-dry process.
Regular Maintenance
3. Vacuum your carpet regularly. Use a professional every couple of years to keep your silk carpet maintained and clean. Silk does not repel liquids, so it is extremely important to immediately clean any spills. Most silk should only be dry cleaned. Getting silk wet can reduce its strength significantly. Getting silk wet can also cause yellowing and markings in the carpet. Be sure to use a walk-off mat at each entrance area. This will help to reduce the amount of cleaning you need to do. This is a good preventative measure.
Restoring Pile
Pile crushed by heavy furniture can be restored up-right by spraying the area with a little water and brushing with a soft brush (a clothes brush will do)
Vacuuming
Always vacuum your rug with the nap (the lay of the nap can be checked by running your hand across the length of the rug). Vacuuming against the nap will press dirt back into the pile. Avoid using the vacuum on the fringe of the rug or kilim as the fringe may break or tear. Always use the same vacuum attachment you would use for hardwood floor. You don’t need the power brush vacuum.
Spills
Deal with spills immediately. Depending on what has been spilled, it is often a good idea to use a spoon to scoop up the spill. Dilute the spill with water and blot, do not rub the area with a paper towel until all moisture is removed. Always blot from the outer edges towards the center to prevent the spill from spreading.
Washing
Depending on the type of traffic your rug receives it is a good idea to wash your rug every four to five years. Surface cleaning is all that is usually needed. It is best to have your rug cleaned by a professional cleaner specializing in area rugs.
Carpet Shedding
Tibetan rugs shed a little for few months but it will stop. If you see any tread coming out of the carpet, don’t get alert. Just snip it with a pair of scissors.
Linens
Bed, bath and table linens are essential elements of the home. With proper care, our fine linens will last for many years, instilling them with real heirloom quality. They are meant for everyday use, and to be enjoyed by all.
LINENS
Tips Before You Begin
Home laundering is recommended for all our linens, except were dry cleaning is indicated. We strongly recommend that you a) pre-wash all linens before use, and b) wash linens separately from anything else, particularly items that contain polyester. Polyester "pills", and will shed its pilling on natural fibers, diminishing the smoothness and softness of the fabric. In addition, garments with buttons or zippers can damage more delicate linens in the wash. Select a gentle laundry detergent. Products with bluing agents or whiteners are not recommended on coloured linens, as they may progressively fade the colours. Consider a longstanding French tradition to ensure longevity of bedding: rotate your sheets, with a set in the closet, a set in the bed and a set in the wash. This ensures that no one set receives more wear than another.
Word of caution: certain hair and skin products that contain oxidizing agents (e.g., lotions used for acne) may cause discoloration of sheets, particularly blue linens. If you use such personal products, cover your pillow with a white pillowcase or towel.
Shrinkage
Shrinkage will occur with all linens made of natural fibers, the amount of shrinkage ranging from 4 to 10 percent, depending on the fibers used. The sizing of our products allows for expected shrinkage. Linens washed in hot water or dried at hot temperatures will shrink excessively. Pre-shrunk items, such as jacquard -woven table linens or honeycomb towels, normally shrink 3 percent or less. Generally, very large pieces of fabric or very high thread count linens are not pre-shrunk.
Washing Bedding
Linens should be separated into light or dark colours. Avoid overloading the machine to prevent breaking long fibers like those in Egyptian cotton. Whether cotton, pure linen or a linen/cotton blend, bedding should be washed in warm water, using a gentle laundering agent, with a final cold rinse. If pre-soaking is necessary, it should be in cold water.
Allow your washing machine to fill up and begin agitating before you add the detergent or bleach. Unless your linens are extremely soiled, use half the commercial detergent recommended; this will reduce the damage to the fibers and clean your linens just as well.
Remove washed bedding promptly from the machine; this will help reduce the wrinkling. Shaking damp linens out before drying (at low heat) will also reduce wrinkles and quicken the drying time.
How To Dry
Line drying linens is ideal, leaving linens nearly wrinkle-free and smelling fresh, but using your dryer with the proper settings will bring out satisfactory results, leaving linens relatively wrinkle- free and soft.
Do not over dry your linens using a setting that is too hot. Set your dryer on permanent press, which has a cool down cycle at the end that helps reduce wrinkles. Most dryers have an air cycle that simply air-tumbles its contents without any heat. This is a good method for drying linens.
Remove your linens promptly to reduce wrinkling. Smooth them out, finger pressing details like flanges on pillow shams, boarders on flat sheets, edges of tablecloths or napkins. Then fold carefully.
How To Iron
Washing and drying your linens properly will eliminate many wrinkles. But fine linens made of natural fibers do wrinkle, particularly when new. As they become older and softer, you will notice that they wrinkle less.
For both bedding and table linens, using a good steam iron will make ironing easier. Avoid using spray starch, which has a tendency to adhere to the surface of the iron, and may also attract silverfish to the stored linens. If you wish to iron your linens, the following guidelines are recommended.
Bedding
Iron your bed linens while they are still damp. If the piece is embroidered, ironing on the reverse side will prevent damage to the embroidery. Refer to the sew in labels with the universal symbols for the appropriate setting for your iron.
Table Linens
Table linens should be ironed while damp. Interestingly, ironing jacquard woven table linens will enhance the pattern by increasing the three-dimensional appearance inherent in the jacquard woven technique.
Care of Bath Linens
Terry towels: washing terry towels before use begins the 'breaking in' process, making them softer and more absorbent. Several washings are required for 100% cotton towels to achieve their maximum absorbency, softness and fluff. If a loop of terry gets snagged, DO NOT pull on it. Each loop is individually knotted and simply requires trimming with scissors.
Honeycomb towels: lightweight, waffle-weave towels are loosely woven for absorbency, dry very quickly and have been pre-shrunk.
Launder towels in warm water with a gentle detergent. Do not use bleach. Wash only with other towels and do not mix colours. It's normal to have excess fibre shed in the first several washes; this will not detract from the life of the towel.
While fabric softeners can improve the feel of your wash, it is particularly important with towels that fabric softeners NOT be used since it decreases the absorbency of the towel over time. The softener builds up on the surface of the fibre and will not be completely removed during the regular rinse cycle.
Take care not to overload the tumble dryer; over-drying can cause the band on the towel to shrink.
Word of caution: certain hair and skin products that contain oxidizing agents (e.g. lotions used for acne) may cause discoloration. If you use such personal products, test for colourfastness in an inconspicuous spot.
Storing Linens
If you plan on storing your linens, iron them before you store them.
Store linens flat; if the shelves are wooden, line them with tissue paper; some woods such as cedar contain oils that can damage linens.
Make sure that linens are not exposed to direct sunlight or moonlight to avoid colour fading.
Do not leave table linens on your table were they might be exposed to direct sunlight over an extended period of time.
With all natural stone products, we recommend the use of a stone maintenance program using an impregnating sealer and neutral cleaner. Harsh chemicals, especially acidic or alkaline products can cause damage to polished stones. Care should be taken in the selection of sealers, as some sealers may enhance the color of the stone(We suggest not using a topcoat as it can give stone a waxy or artificial look.)
Dust mop interior floors. Like all high-gloss materials, stone installed as flooring should be kept free of dust, sand and tracked-in soil. This sediment can damage the polished finish of even the hardest stone. A good "first line of defense" is the strategic placement of walk-off mats at any outside entrances. If the floor is sediment-free, mopping and rinsing with clean, warm water will be sufficient to keep your floor looking beautiful.
Prevent soap scum build-up in showers and baths by using a squeegee.
GRANITE SURFACES
As one of the hardest of the natural stones, granite is especially appropriate for use as flooring or countertops. An igneous rock, granite is impervious to damage from household kitchen acids such as vinegar, citrus drinks and sodas. Granite also handles heat extremely well; taking a hot pan from the stove and placing it on a granite countertop is perfectly all right.
Do remember, however, that some granite can be stained by some liquids or darkened by oils if not properly sealed with a penetrating stone sealer. Once sealed, granite shouldn’t require any special care other than regular cleaning with warm, soapy water.
Granite Countertops
1. Step 1
Blot up spills immediately, before they penetrate the surface.
2. Step 2
Clean stone surfaces with a few drops of neutral cleaner, stone soap (available in hardware stores or from a stone dealer), or mild dishwashing liquid and warm water.
3. Step 3
Use a soft, clean cloth to clean the granite. Rinse after washing with the soap solution and dry with a soft, clean cloth.
4. Step 4
Remove a stain on granite, basing the method on the type of stain. Mix a cup of flour, 1-2 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid with water to make a thick paste. Put it on the stain, cover with plastic wrap, and let it sit overnight.
5. Step 5
Scrape away the mixture with a wooden utensil and rinse. If the stain is oil-based (e.g. grease, oil, milk), use hydrogen peroxide in the paste instead of dishwashing liquid - or try ammonia on it.
6. Step 6
Try a mixture of 12 percent hydrogen peroxide mixed with a couple drops of ammonia for an organic stain (e.g. coffee, tea, fruit).
7. Step 7
Use a lacquer thinner or acetone to remove ink or marker stains from darker stone. On light-colored granite, use hydrogen peroxide to these stains. This also works for wine stains.
8. Step 8
Mix molding plaster and pure bleach into a paste and spread over a wine, ink or other non-oil stain. Leave on for 30 minutes, then remove and rinse.
9. Step 9
Paste a mix of molding plaster and water over an oil-based or fat-based stain. Mold it into a bird's-nest shape and allow to stand for 3 hours. Remove and rinse.
10. Step 10
Reseal the countertop every year or two years. Check with the installer for recommendations. Use a non-toxic sealer on food preparation areas.
11. Step 11
Consider using a new disinfectant cleaner made specifically for granite.
12. Step 12
Call your professional stone supplier, installer, or restoration specialist for problems that appear too difficult to treat.
MARBLE, LIMESTONE, TRAVERTINE
Marble, limestone and travertine are calcareous (calcium-based) stones that are perfect for foyer and bathroom flooring, walls, bathroom counters and fireplaces. Because they are more porous stones, some care should be taken when used in the kitchen as flooring or countertops.
After installation, seal with a penetrating stone sealer. Sealing will minimize any absorption of liquids that might stain the material. Polished marble, limestone and travertine can still, however, be damaged by acidic substances (such as vinegar, citrus drinks, mustard and catsup). These acids can dull a polished surface or roughen a honed finish if not wiped up promptly.
If necessary, clean with a stone cleaner, neutral Ph cleaner or mild dishwashing liquid. Never use abrasive cleansers, "soft scrub" products or harsh or acidic chemicals on any stone as these can scratch or dull the polished finish. A good rule of thumb is never to use anything on your stone that you wouldn’t use on your hands.
There are excellent stone-specific cleaning products available, including pH-neutral cleaners that are specifically formulated to be gentle to stone surfaces. Avoid cleaning products not specifically designed for marble, limestone or travertine.
Sandstone tiles are excellent materials to use because of their natural beauty. They also help prevent accidents and injuries because of their porous surface. Sandstone has many advantages but it also has special needs that you need to take care of in order to maintain and keep your sandstone tiles clean and beautiful. Here are some ways to clean sandstone tiles.
1. If you have just installed your sandstone tiles, you will need to cover them immediately with a sealing chemical for protection. Without this chemical it will be very easy to destroy the stone tiles. The sealing chemical acts like a protective covering for sandstone tiles that will both protect them and make it easier to take care of
2. With the sealing chemical already on the tiles, it will simply be a matter of daily maintenance to keep them clean. Use a dry dust mop to remove dust and other particles on the tiles every day. Sandstone tiles are pretty much weak when they get wet since there is a chance that the tiles will absorb moist or wet substances. When this happens, it will be almost impossible to repair the affected tile.
3. If you find that there is a spill on your tiles, you should make it a habit to always clean it immediately. If the spill has already become part of the tile and it seems practically impossible to remove, use a sponge and a little bit of hot water to clean off the spillages.
QUARTZ
Quartz countertops are beautiful, highly-polished, durable, non-porous and stronger than granite. They are mold and mildew resistant as well as impervious to water and other liquids. It is more hygienic and food-safe due to its non-porous surface. This property also makes the stone highly polished without the need of a sealant.
Although almost maintenance-free, there are things that need to be considered and observed to keep a quartz countertop looking like new and in tip-top condition. Like all natural stones, quartz countertops still need to be cared for to keep its gloss, color and shine and be used longer. Here are some care tips.
1. Wipe the quartz countertop with a soft damp cloth or paper towel for routine cleaning. If there is some residue that needs more attention, use a mild cleanser that is chlorine-free and non-abrasive. Continued scrubbing with an abrasive material can eventually wear away and dull the surface of your quartz countertop.
2. Quartz countertop will resists moisture and permanent staining but it is a good habit and hygienic practice to wipe off spilled liquids and food immediately. Some highly-acidic fruit juices can discolor the stone
3. Scrub dried and stubborn spills with a nonabrasive cleaning pad and a bit of glass and surface cleanser or a mild dishwashing detergent.
4. Even if a quartz countertop is highly polished and do not require a sealant, avoid the use of bleach or cleaning agents containing bleach to preserve the color of the countertop.
5. Quartz countertop can tolerate moderate heat but continued exposure to high heat can damage its surface. Use trivets and hot pads underneath hot pots and pans to protect the beautiful surface of your quartz countertop.
6. Use a plastic putty knife to gently scrape dried up food particles, gum, nail polish, grease or paint that have stuck to the surface of your quartz countertop. A used credit card will also do the trick.
7. Use a degreasing product to loosen and remove grease build up on countertops. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using such products.
8. Avoid the use of and exposing the quartz countertop to harsh chemicals and solvents such as paint and nail polish removers, oven cleaners and furniture strippers that contain methylene chloride or trichlorethane. These chemicals can damage the surface of the countertop and discolor the stone.
9. Avoid using products that contain oils and powders that can leave a residue and mar the polish of your quartz countertop.
Take care of your quartz countertop. It will not only preserve the beauty of the countertop, it will also ensure that you will be able to use your quartz countertop for a very long time; perhaps it can even outlast your house
TERRAZZO
Terrazzo floors are not only beautiful, but also very durable. Terrazzo is made by embedding pieces of marble in concrete and then polishing the surface to be very smooth. As a result of terrazzo's smooth and high-shine finish, it can show stains and scratches very easily. Caring for your terrazzo tile floor properly will ensure it continues to look beautiful for many years to come
Entrance Mats
1. The worst enemy of any floor is dust and grit brought into the building on shoes from outside. These outside contaminates are abrasive and will dull and scratch the floor. In order to minimize the possible damage from outside dirt, all entrances should be supplied with absorbent mats. Entrance mats should be long enough, at least six feet, to collect dirt and debris from the shoes before people step off the mats onto the terrazzo. For wet or snowy weather, longer mats are needed in order to collect water and salt residue. The mats should be vacuumed daily and cleaned or replaced as needed.
Dust Mopping
2. Dust mopping is as important as entrance mats for daily terrazzo care. Dust mopping with a dust mop that has been treated with a water-based treatment should be done at least once a day. Never use oil-based dust mop treatment on terrazzo floors. If foot traffic is heavy, the floor should be dust mopped more often. In a school situation, the floors are often dust mopped during each period while classes are in session. Dust mops should be allowed to become quite soiled, as a well-used mop will do a better job of collecting dust and grit than a brand new clean mop.
Wet Mopping
1. Terrazzo floors should be wet mopped regularly to keep the surface clean and shiny. Most cleaners are alkaline, having a pH above the 8.0 range, and will leave a haze on the surface that is difficult to remove. Acid cleaners with a pH below 6.0 will permanently harm the floor by etching the surface. Any cleaner used on terrazzo should be pH neutral. Always follow the manufacturer's directions when diluting cleaning chemicals. Although neutral floor cleaners with a dilution ration of ½ or 1 ounce per gallon appear expensive, these are probably the best value for your cleaning dollar because of the amount of diluted product they will yield.
Buffing
2. When the floor is completely dry, buff it with a 175-rpm floor machine. High-speed machines do a fine job on resilient tile floors with floor finish on them, but will not do any better than a 175-rpm floor machine on terrazo. Make sure that the buffing pads are white polishing pads; any colored pad will be too abrasive for terrazzo.
Other Considerations
3. Never put a floor finish or sealer on terrazzo. Terrazzo needs to breathe and allow moisture to rise to the surface and evaporate. If the floor has a seal on it, the moisture will have nowhere to go, and the floor will eventually crack.
Clean spills as quickly as possible in order to prevent the spill from penetrating the surface and causing a stain.
Natural stone (slate, sandstone, flagstone)
METAL.
. Brass,Copper, Iron
Cleaning brass and copper can be some of the most challenging of household cleaning. I've included three options to clean your brass and copper naturally and frugally, using common household products.
RECIPE 1
Mix baking soda and white vinegar together to create a paste. Rub into copper or brass item with a soft cloth. Rinse and dry with a cloth.
RECIPE 2
For more stubborn stains, make a paste of white vinegar and salt. Rub on object with cloth. This is most abrasive and should be used with caution on fragile surfaces.
LIGHT FIXTURES
1 Remove the light bulb and lamp shade (if there is one) so that they are out of the way.
2 Wipe the copper light fixture with a soft cloth to remove any dust.
3 Mix equal parts flour, salt and vinegar until they form a paste-like consistency.
4 Apply the paste mix to the lamp. Rub it evenly over all the copper parts of the light fixture.
5 Set the copper light fixture with the paste on it aside for at least 15 minutes. The acid in the vinegar will set in and begin to dissolve the tarnish. For more severe tarnish, you may want to let the paste sit longer.
6 Rinse the paste off with a cloth soaked with warm water.
7 Wipe down again with a clean, dry cloth to finish shining the copper light fixture.
Lemon and Salt Cleaner 1 Clean the copper light fixture with a cloth to remove any materials on the surface.
2 Cut a lemon in half and sprinkle it with salt.
3 Rub the lemon halve over the light fixture, applying more salt as needed.
4 Take a soft cloth and wipe the light fixture dry
GLASS
. Frosted
Cleaning Frosted Glass Wipe the window with purified water using a squeegee until it is saturated. Frosted glass tends to have pits that attract the dirt. This sometimes makes it necessary to use an abrasive sponge to thoroughly clean it. However, it is very important to understand that frosted glass can be marked by metallic objects. If this happens, you may need to use a wet and dry emery paper to help smooth out any dings and streaks.
Dry the frosted glass window with a dry cloth in a circular motion until there are not any more streaks. It is that simple! A frosted glass window has some great benefits, along with the fact that it adds elegance and style to a home. Just remember the secret to cleaning frosted glass is simply using purified water
CARPENTRY
Veneer
1. Dampen a soft, non-abrasive, lint-free cloth with warm water. Do not soak your cloth, as you do not want to over saturate your wood. Allow just enough moisture to dampen your furniture, removing simple dust and dirt. Wipe the entire surface of your wood veneer, always moving in the direction of the wood grain.
2. Apply a dab of mild dishwashing detergent to your damp cloth to remove more stubborn spots such as finger prints and liquid stains. For especially stubborn stains, you can lightly spray the wood with a commercial glass cleaner without harming the finish or leaving any unwanted residues, according to Office Supply Services Inc.
3. Dry your wood veneer using a second non-abrasive cloth. Remember to wipe in the direction of the wood grain and continue until the wood dries completely, in order to avoid water spotting.
4. Polish your wood veneer by dabbing a liquid polish onto a soft cloth and wiping the surface of the veneer just as you would during a regular cleaning. You do not need to polish your veneer as part of your regular maintenance, but polishing can restore the wood's natural shine if it becomes to look dull.
. Engineered (flooring)
Engineered hardwood floors are made by layering fiberboard underneath a top layer of real wood. This design lets the boards in the flooring expand and contract with changing humidity levels, allowing engineered hardwoods to be used in areas that traditional hardwood flooring cannot be. Engineered hardwood floors are not difficult to care for and last for a long time when properly maintained.
Sweep the floors every 2 to 3 days. Fine dirt particles can scratch the floor so it is important to remove dust on a regular basis. Be sure the broom you are using has fine, soft bristles. A dry dust mop can also be used.
2.Vacuum the floor using a soft brush vacuum attachment about once a week. This will pick up any dust or fine dirt particles on the floor and pull dust up from between the boards.
3. Use a SLIGHTLY damp mop if the floor is heavily soiled and in need of some extra attention. Ring out the mop well, until it is almost dry. If you feel the need to use cleaning solution on the floor, use one approved by the floor manufacturer.
4. Place area rugs and carpet runners in high traffic areas to protect the floor. Clean underneath them often so that dirt does not filter through the rug and onto the floor. It is also wise to put a heavy mat just outside and inside the door to catch as much dirt as possible when you and your guests enter the house.
5. Clean up any liquid spills right away and be sure the floor is completely dry. Liquid is hardwood flooring's biggest enemy.
6.Take your shoes off upon entering your home and asks guests to do the same. High heels, heavy work boots and athletic cleats are especially likely to cause floor damage.
CARPET
. Wool
1.Vacuum your wool carpet regularly, at least once every week because dirt gets easily embedded into wool fibers. Use a vacuum that has a rotating brush on the highest floor setting so the brushes just barely touch the top of the wool carpet. Sprinkle carpet powder on the surface prior to vacuuming to help pull up dirt and hair from the fibers.
2.Spray spots in your wool carpet with a commercial stain remover and let the solution soak into the fibers. Cover the spot with a thick stack of paper towels or a clean, absorbent cloth and apply pressure to pull out the stain and the solution. You also can use a handheld deep-cleaning carpet cleaner or shampoo machine to spot clean.
3.Use an aerosol foam carpet spray on your wool carpet stain. Gently work it in with a cleaning brush; do not scrub or you will damage carpet fibers. Allow it to dry before vacuuming.
4.Purchase or rent a professional carpet shampooer to clean the entire carpet. Put a mild natural detergent in the solution with water. Shampoo your wool carpet at least once a month with this solution.
Tips & Warnings
5.Mix a small amount of mild natural detergent in spray bottle with water. Next time you notice a fresh stain on your wool carpet, you'll have something handy to spray it and soak up the liquid with a sponge or paper towel. For vomit or another solid spill on your wool carpet, scoop it up with a large spoon so you'll avoid smearing into the wool fibers. Be careful not to buy a vacuum cleaner with very stiff brushes as this tends to pull out the wool fiber and create a "fuzzed" look
Silk
Cleaning silk carpet is a risky and best suited for professionals, but at times you may have to clean the carpet yourself or a spill could occur that must be handled quickly. If your silk carpet has any kind of manufacturer's cleaning instructions, refer to these first. Be advised that even when following the manufacturer's instructions, you will need to test the least conspicuous area before cleaning your entire carpet. Taking preventative measure are necessary to reduce the cleaning needs, and will keep your silk carpet looking new for longer
Cleaning Solutions
1. Only use a mild detergent that will not damage the color or fibers of the silk. A solution of warm water and white vinegar is good to spray on any affected or dirty areas of a silk carpet that need to be cleaned. Be careful not to use any cleaning solutions excessively because it will make it harder to rinse these out and residues will most likely be left behind that will turn your silk carpet into more of a sponge for soil. Test a small, inconspicuous area with any cleaning detergent that you are going to use before applying it to any large area. If there are any negative results at all, do not use that cleaner.
Moisture
2. Never saturate your silk carpet with water. This will cause permanent damage to the carpet, its lining and your floors. Colors on a silk carpet will run and fade when wet, so be careful with any fluid and blot, don't rub, when absorbing liquid off of the carpet with a rag or sponge. Make sure that your carpet is dry within 12 hours after cleaning it. You can do this by making sure it does not get wet during cleaning. You can also turn on the heating in your house and make sure that a number of fans are blowing to speed the drying process. If your silk carpet is removable, hanging it to dry is not a good idea because the edges may brown from the hang-dry process.
Regular Maintenance
3. Vacuum your carpet regularly. Use a professional every couple of years to keep your silk carpet maintained and clean. Silk does not repel liquids, so it is extremely important to immediately clean any spills. Most silk should only be dry cleaned. Getting silk wet can reduce its strength significantly. Getting silk wet can also cause yellowing and markings in the carpet. Be sure to use a walk-off mat at each entrance area. This will help to reduce the amount of cleaning you need to do. This is a good preventative measure.
Restoring Pile
Pile crushed by heavy furniture can be restored up-right by spraying the area with a little water and brushing with a soft brush (a clothes brush will do)
Vacuuming
Always vacuum your rug with the nap (the lay of the nap can be checked by running your hand across the length of the rug). Vacuuming against the nap will press dirt back into the pile. Avoid using the vacuum on the fringe of the rug or kilim as the fringe may break or tear. Always use the same vacuum attachment you would use for hardwood floor. You don’t need the power brush vacuum.
Spills
Deal with spills immediately. Depending on what has been spilled, it is often a good idea to use a spoon to scoop up the spill. Dilute the spill with water and blot, do not rub the area with a paper towel until all moisture is removed. Always blot from the outer edges towards the center to prevent the spill from spreading.
Washing
Depending on the type of traffic your rug receives it is a good idea to wash your rug every four to five years. Surface cleaning is all that is usually needed. It is best to have your rug cleaned by a professional cleaner specializing in area rugs.
Carpet Shedding
Tibetan rugs shed a little for few months but it will stop. If you see any tread coming out of the carpet, don’t get alert. Just snip it with a pair of scissors.
Linens
Bed, bath and table linens are essential elements of the home. With proper care, our fine linens will last for many years, instilling them with real heirloom quality. They are meant for everyday use, and to be enjoyed by all.
LINENS
Tips Before You Begin
Home laundering is recommended for all our linens, except were dry cleaning is indicated. We strongly recommend that you a) pre-wash all linens before use, and b) wash linens separately from anything else, particularly items that contain polyester. Polyester "pills", and will shed its pilling on natural fibers, diminishing the smoothness and softness of the fabric. In addition, garments with buttons or zippers can damage more delicate linens in the wash. Select a gentle laundry detergent. Products with bluing agents or whiteners are not recommended on coloured linens, as they may progressively fade the colours. Consider a longstanding French tradition to ensure longevity of bedding: rotate your sheets, with a set in the closet, a set in the bed and a set in the wash. This ensures that no one set receives more wear than another.
Word of caution: certain hair and skin products that contain oxidizing agents (e.g., lotions used for acne) may cause discoloration of sheets, particularly blue linens. If you use such personal products, cover your pillow with a white pillowcase or towel.
Shrinkage
Shrinkage will occur with all linens made of natural fibers, the amount of shrinkage ranging from 4 to 10 percent, depending on the fibers used. The sizing of our products allows for expected shrinkage. Linens washed in hot water or dried at hot temperatures will shrink excessively. Pre-shrunk items, such as jacquard -woven table linens or honeycomb towels, normally shrink 3 percent or less. Generally, very large pieces of fabric or very high thread count linens are not pre-shrunk.
Washing Bedding
Linens should be separated into light or dark colours. Avoid overloading the machine to prevent breaking long fibers like those in Egyptian cotton. Whether cotton, pure linen or a linen/cotton blend, bedding should be washed in warm water, using a gentle laundering agent, with a final cold rinse. If pre-soaking is necessary, it should be in cold water.
Allow your washing machine to fill up and begin agitating before you add the detergent or bleach. Unless your linens are extremely soiled, use half the commercial detergent recommended; this will reduce the damage to the fibers and clean your linens just as well.
Remove washed bedding promptly from the machine; this will help reduce the wrinkling. Shaking damp linens out before drying (at low heat) will also reduce wrinkles and quicken the drying time.
How To Dry
Line drying linens is ideal, leaving linens nearly wrinkle-free and smelling fresh, but using your dryer with the proper settings will bring out satisfactory results, leaving linens relatively wrinkle- free and soft.
Do not over dry your linens using a setting that is too hot. Set your dryer on permanent press, which has a cool down cycle at the end that helps reduce wrinkles. Most dryers have an air cycle that simply air-tumbles its contents without any heat. This is a good method for drying linens.
Remove your linens promptly to reduce wrinkling. Smooth them out, finger pressing details like flanges on pillow shams, boarders on flat sheets, edges of tablecloths or napkins. Then fold carefully.
How To Iron
Washing and drying your linens properly will eliminate many wrinkles. But fine linens made of natural fibers do wrinkle, particularly when new. As they become older and softer, you will notice that they wrinkle less.
For both bedding and table linens, using a good steam iron will make ironing easier. Avoid using spray starch, which has a tendency to adhere to the surface of the iron, and may also attract silverfish to the stored linens. If you wish to iron your linens, the following guidelines are recommended.
Bedding
Iron your bed linens while they are still damp. If the piece is embroidered, ironing on the reverse side will prevent damage to the embroidery. Refer to the sew in labels with the universal symbols for the appropriate setting for your iron.
Table Linens
Table linens should be ironed while damp. Interestingly, ironing jacquard woven table linens will enhance the pattern by increasing the three-dimensional appearance inherent in the jacquard woven technique.
Care of Bath Linens
Terry towels: washing terry towels before use begins the 'breaking in' process, making them softer and more absorbent. Several washings are required for 100% cotton towels to achieve their maximum absorbency, softness and fluff. If a loop of terry gets snagged, DO NOT pull on it. Each loop is individually knotted and simply requires trimming with scissors.
Honeycomb towels: lightweight, waffle-weave towels are loosely woven for absorbency, dry very quickly and have been pre-shrunk.
Launder towels in warm water with a gentle detergent. Do not use bleach. Wash only with other towels and do not mix colours. It's normal to have excess fibre shed in the first several washes; this will not detract from the life of the towel.
While fabric softeners can improve the feel of your wash, it is particularly important with towels that fabric softeners NOT be used since it decreases the absorbency of the towel over time. The softener builds up on the surface of the fibre and will not be completely removed during the regular rinse cycle.
Take care not to overload the tumble dryer; over-drying can cause the band on the towel to shrink.
Word of caution: certain hair and skin products that contain oxidizing agents (e.g. lotions used for acne) may cause discoloration. If you use such personal products, test for colourfastness in an inconspicuous spot.
Storing Linens
If you plan on storing your linens, iron them before you store them.
Store linens flat; if the shelves are wooden, line them with tissue paper; some woods such as cedar contain oils that can damage linens.
Make sure that linens are not exposed to direct sunlight or moonlight to avoid colour fading.
Do not leave table linens on your table were they might be exposed to direct sunlight over an extended period of time.